Manufacture of shoes



Oct. 11, 1927.

E. E. WINKLEY ET AL MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Aug. 5. 1925 F3, AWLA"Jae-'1 .l. atsutca GUI. 11, limelens-7i UNITED stares PATENT OFFICE.

EBASTUS E. WINKLEY, OF LYNN, AND HERMAN A. DAVEE'PORT, 0F BROGKTON, M AS- SACHUSETTS, ASSIGNORS TO UNITEDSHGE Il'l'AOE-IINERY CORPORATION, OFEATER- SON, NEW JERSEY, A COBPOB-ATIGIT 01E NEW JERSEY. I

Application filed August 5, 1925. Serial No. 48,386..

This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, and has 'moreparticular reference to the application of compacting or shapingpressure to the bottoms of shoes. In certain important aspects theinvention is especially aoplicable to the manufacture of welt shoes,while in other aspects it is not thuslimited but is generally applicableto the manufacture of shoes of various kinds.

In the manufacture of many kinds of shoes, especially womens shoes ofthe lighter grades, -it is generally recognized as desirable to producewhat is termed a close edge eiiect, that is, to shape the bottom of theshoe in such manner that the margin or edge of the sole (including thewelt in'the case of a welt shoe) will lie close to the upper, with asnarrow a crease between t each end of the inseam a pucker in the edge ofthe upper. which forms a projection that contributes to the same effectand that sometimes renders the bottom of the outsole uneven so that theheel will not fit the outsole closely the breast line. It hasproved tobe impossible to remedy these conditions entirely by the operation ofleveling the outsole, even when supplemented by the well known operationof beatino' the margin of the sole in he shank, since after the outsolehas been secured to the welt it acts as a binder to hold the materialswhich project at the inseam from spreading freely under the levelingpressure; As an alternative, it has been plop t sec. to flatten theprojecting materials sufficiently for the purpose in View before theoutsole is'applied, either by the use of ahammer' or by the action of aroll such asused in sole-leveling -1nachines.

A manual operation such as that involved in hammering the projectingmaterials is.

slow and QXPGIlSlVG and non-uniform in its results, and must also beperformed with much care to avoid damage to the shoe. It

T here is also usually found has a cushionin effect which areven'ts lahas been found, furthermore, that ii the use of rolling pressure,especially with machines of the automatic type, there is also seriousdanger of damage to the shoe by overstraining the inseam, particularlyin the case of comparatively light materials suclr as are commonly usedin womens shoes.

The present invention provides a method of treating welt shoes wherebythe mate rials projecting at the inseam may be flattened uniformly andto such an extent as is necessary "to facilitate the formation of tl edesired close edge and the close fit of the heel, without danger ofdamaging the shoe even when made of light materials. In accordance withthis method, in. one important aspect, there is applied to the bottomofthe shoe, after thewelt-sewing op eration, and preferably also afterthe inseam-trimming operation, a piece of flexible material, hereinfrequently termed a saddle, and through this material flattening orcompacting pressure is applied to 'the'shoe bottom to prepare the shoefor the reception of the outsole. For the best results the flexiblematerial should be of sufficient toughness to prevent any substantialindentation ther ofby the inseam projection, and it should also be fleriale enough to conform readily to the shape of the shoe bottom. It hasbeen found that India; tanned leather meets tl1ese requirements, theleather being. preferably placed so that its tougher flesh side is,toward the bottom of the shoe. It is advantageous also to apply to thefiexiblematerial g or saddle a pull at each side inthe direction oftheheight of the shoe to hold it tightly against the shoe bottom during theapplication of the pressure. method there may advantageously beutilized, in the treatmentof shoes preparatory to the application oftheoutsole, macl iines of the type used heretofore to apply rollingpressure automatically for leveling "e o sole, since the interposedflexible matei age to. shoe by the comparatively heavy rolling pressureapplied by such machines. I

in a further importantaspect, the invention provides novel means adaptedfor use in applying pressure to the bottoms of shoes, including a novelsaddle constructed and. ar-

By the use of this ranged to facilitate the propenappli cation V oi".such pressure. For uniformity in the pressure-applying operation, it isdesirable, as above intimated,that the saddle substantially con'torm, orbe readily conformable, to the curvature of the bottom of the shoe, andthe invention accordingly provides a saddle which is formed to presenttoward a portion of the bottom of the shoe a face which is eoncave inthe direction of the length or the shoe, thus adapting it for effectiveuse at the torepart of the shoe' A saddle so formed isparticularly welladaptedfor use jected at each side of theitorepart at the rear of thetoeto a pull in the direction of the height of the shoe, by the force ofwhich the saddle, if not concaved' lengthwise of the 'torepart, would beheld with its front end spaced more or less from thetoe of the shoe. Asherein illustrated, thesaddleis formed in @the desired shape byproviding therein slits extending lengthwise oii-the shoe along theportions at the opposite sides of the torepart,

and by shortening the marginal portionsly mg between said slits'a-ndtsside edges so as to contract the periphery of the saddle. Convenientlyalso the slits are so formed as 'to provide flapsadapted to be engagedin tensioning the saddle over the shoe. A turther advantage in the useof a saddle thus provided w1th a concavity to receive .the

shoe is that it is comparatively easy to posi-, tion the saddle in theproper location upon the shoe; It has been found, furthermore, that whenconstructed as above described,

the same saddle may be used in operating ,upon shoes of various sizes.

with particularreference to its use in applying pressure tothe bottom ofa welt shoe prior to the application of the outsole to the 7 shoe, theinvent-ion in various novel aspects is not. thus limited, since a saddletermed as her-eln'shown and described 1s lnrew se well adapted for usein applying sole-level ing pressure to shoes of various kinds in cludingboth welt and turn shoes.

The invention will now be more particu- V larly described by referenceto the accompanyingdrawings and thereafter pointed out in the claims- Inthe drawingsi V Fig. 1 is a partial side elevation of a machine adaptedfor use inpractising the fmethodot this invention. I V Figs. 2 and showthe toeandheel ends 7 of a welt shoe before the seamrolhng operation.

ing Patent No. 1,239,66 l granted on Septem- While the invention isherein illustrated.

heel post 12 and a toe post l t, which are rocked as a whole'about apivot at '16, so as to oscillate beneath a heavily springpressed roll18, carried on an arm 20, pivoted at the rear of the machine, bysuitable power mechanism, for description of all of which refer- .yencemay be made to the prior patents. V v where, as herein shown, the saddle15 sub.

, The novel saddle 22 of the present invention is connected by twosprings 2a, 26 on each side to a lever 28 pivoted on the toe post andlocatable in any desired position by means of the segment 30. The saddleshown is made preferably of Indian-tanned leather (which is a species ofoil tanned rawhide believed to be. manufactured in accordance with theaboriginal methods of preparing leather in America), and has its fleshside toward the shoe. Such leather is flexible enough toconform readilyto the contour or :1 shoe, and is at the same time sufficiently toughonits flesh side for the purpose in view. The saddle is provided, at therear of its center, or at the shank of the shoe, with an ear 32 on eachside, to which a spring 24: is fastened. Its torward portion. is slit ateach side at 3d, the slits extending length wise of thesaddle, and themarginal portions or straps 36 thus formed. at each side are shortened"by the removal of a short piece and the resulting ends are fastenedtogether by .plates 38.

curved, as shown, to provide flaps, and to these flaps the springs26 areattached by ilates 39. The shortened straps pull the :to'repart oi: thesaddle intoa longitudinally concave shape, contracting its periphery, asshown, so that when the springs 26 are drawn down by the lever 28 thetoe endot thesaddle as well as other portions will fit over and pulldown on the bottom of a shoe in the lll2ll1lIlG'. lhe saddle shown islong enough to cover the entire shoe bottom. Preferably the straps 36are positioned outside of the flaps formed by the slits 34.

Figs. 2 and at show the ends of a shoe bottom after. the inseam-trimmingoperation.

lhe upstanding ridge or projection a0 along the inseam and the puckerorpro ect1on in the upper at the heel seat are shown. These progeotions inthe finished shoe. if left as they are, will hold the insole and theoutsole apart to suchanexteiit as to render it very difficultyif notimpossible, to obtain the d sired close edge effect between themardin ofthe ontsole and welt, and the upper. The conditions cannot be adequatelyremedied "by leveling the outsoleybe cause after the ontsole stitchingoperation theprojection the inseam is'held so firmly in position thatit'cann-ot be satisfactorily flattened out.

The .slits 34 areprelerably.

her hereinbetore It has been proposed, as an alternative, to place theshoe, alter the inseam trinnning operation, in a machine such asutilized heretotore for leveling outsoles by rolling pres-- sure, and toroll down the projections with the leveling roll. it has been found,however, that in this operation there is serious danger of. strainingthe inseam or of otherwise damaging the shoe, especially in the case ofshoes that are made of light materials, such as womens shoes. Inaccordance with our invention, this ditl cultyis avoided by interposinga layer of tough flexible material, for example a saddle such ashereinbetore described, between the shoe and the pressure applyingmeans. It is preferable that the saddle be made of such material thatthe inseam projection cannot indent it to any substantial extent, and wehave found that the flesh side of leather suitable for saddles is betterfor engagement with the shoe than the grain side, since it is tougher.

The machine shown, including a saddle such as shown and describes, isuseful also in all respects as a sole leveling. machine and may well beso used on the same shoes alter the attachment oi the outsolo, greatlyimproving the production of a close edge around the entire shoe forwardof the heel.

The saddle cam-it desired, be turned wrong side out to bring thesmoother surface ot the grain side of the leather against the treadsurface of the outs-ole. The described saddle eilects a strong downwardpull over the toe end of the shoe as well at the sides, due to. the lonudi al concavity described, and thus the do eff ct is secured at the tooas well at the SlClGS'Oi the torepart. l h e longitudinal concavity ofthe saddle shown also prevents it from slipping lengthwiscol? the shoeand the tension at its sides prevents lateral displacement whileassisting in cornpactin or flattening the shoe materials.

' e we have shown the saddle as made ier, any material having therequisite toughness can, be used. dian-tanncd leather pertectlsuccessful in both lei *eling and rolling down seams.

ll hen welt shoe re treateo in the man cribed, the usual filler betweenthe outsole and the insole may be entirely dispensed with at the ballportion 1 This brings the outsole at this of thesnc portion or tne snoecloser to the wood of the last than where a filler .l-S interposed andthus facilitates the shaping of the outsole to the-contour of thebott'omof thelast. Having described our invention, what we claim as newanddesire to secure by Letters Patentof the United'Stat'es .is.:*

1. That improvement in methods of makin welt shoes which consists inqao)l in a m 1. 23

piece of flexible material t-o'the bottom of a shoe after the weltSBWlIlf operation and 'before'the :outsole' is applied to the shoe, and

- the We have. found in.

the shoe.

That improvement in methods of makag welt shoesw-hich consistsinapplying to :hev bottom of ashes, after-the welt sewing p raionandbetore the outsole is applied he shoe, apiece oi flexible sheetmaterial, 1 cu as leather, of sudicient toughness to prevent anysubstantial indentation thereofby shoe materials projecting at theinseam, operating through said flexible material to tlattcn saidprojecting shoe materials.

- 3. That improvement in methods of making welt shoes which consists'inapplying to thebottoin lot a' shoe, after the welt sewing operation andbefore th outsole is applied to the shoe, a piece of Indian-tannedleather with its flesh side toward the shoe, and operating through saidleather to apply compactin ressure to the bottom ot-the shoe.

-l.- liat improvement'in' methods of making welt shoes which consists inapplying a piece of flexible material to the bottom of a shoe after thewelt sewing operation and before the outsole is applied tothe shoe, and

applying to .said flexible materialwrolling pressure to compact thematerials on the bottom of the shoe.

5. That inmrovement in methods cit makingwelt shoes which consists insewing a welt to a shoe, trimming'the inseam, thereafter prior to theapplication of the outsole applying to the bottomot the shoe a pi-eceo'lleather withits fiesh side toward the inseam, and applying rollingpressure to said leather to flatten the shoe materials projecting at theinseam.

6. That improvement in methods of male ing weltshoes which consist inapplying a piece of flexible sheet material to the bottom of a shoeafter the welt sewing operation and before the outsole is applied to theshoe, pulling upon said fiexiblematerial inthe direction of the heightof the shoe to hold it tightly against t-hebottom of the shoe, and whilethus pulling upon the flexible material applying pressure to saidmaterial to flaten the shoe materials pro ecting at the 1n-' 'ingoperation and before the outsole is applied to the shoe, a saddleextending. along the shank and forepart of the shoe, pulling upon saidsaddle at'the opposite sides ofthe shank and-ofthe torepart in thedirectionof the height of the shoe to hold the saddle tightly agalnstthe bottom of the shoe, and

while thus pulling upon the saddle applying I thereto rolling pressureto compactethe inaterials on the bottom of the shoe.

8.;1na machine of the class described, the combinat on withga shoesupport and.

' after the welt sewing operation and before the outsole isapplied tothe shoe, of a saddle comprising a piece of Indian-tanned leatherarranged to be interposed between said roll and the shank and torepartof the shoe and having its flesh side toward the shoe.

10. In a machine of the class described, the combination with a shoesupport and means for applying compacting pressure to the bottom of ashoe on said support, of a saddle of flexible material arranged to be interposed between said pressure applying means and the bottom of theshoe, said sad-' dle being so formed as to present toward a portion ofthe bottom of the shoe a face which is concave in the direction of thelength of the shoe.

11. In a machine of the'class described, the combination with a shoesupport and means for applying compacting pressure to the bottom of ashoe on said support, of a saddle of flexible material arranged to'beinterposed between said pressure applying means and the bottom oi theshoe at the shank and theforepart oi the shoe, said saddle being formedto present toward the bottom of the lorepart of the shoe a face which isconcave inthe direction of? the length of the shoe.

12. in a machine of the 'classdescribed,

the combination with a shoe support and means for applying compactingpressure to the bottom of a shoe on said support, of a. saddle offlexible material arranged to .be interposed between said pressureapplying means and the bottom of the torepart of the shoe, said saddlebeing formed to present to the bottom oi theshoe at the torepart a facewhichis concave in the direction of the length or" the shoe, and meansfor applying to the saddle at each side of the, torepart of theshoe apull in the direction of the height of the shoe. I I f 13. In a machineof the class described,

the combination with a shoe support and means for applyingcompactingpressure to the bottom of a shoe on-said support, of a saddleof flexible material' arranged to be interposed between said pressureapplying j means and the bottom of the forepartof the shoe, said saddlehavingslits formed therein along its opposite side portions to provideflaps extending beyond the sides of the forepart ot the shoe and havingits marginal portions between said slits and its side edges shortened totorm a concavity to receive the shoe, and means attached to said flapsfor tensioning the saddle in the direction oi the height oi the shoe.

let. In a machine oi the class described, the combination with, a shoesupport and means for applying compacting pressure to the bottom ot ashoe on said support, of a saddle of flexible material arranged tobeinterposed between said pressure applying means and the bottom of theshoe at the shank and the fore aart of the shoe, said saddle beingshaped to present toward the bottom of the torepart of the shoe, a faceWlllCll is concave 1n the direct on of the length of the shoe, and meansattached to tne opposite sides of saidsaddle at the shank and thelorepart for tensioning the saddle in the direction of the height of theshoe. 15. For use in a machine of the class described, a saddle offlexible sheet material adapted to cover the bottom of the torepart .ota shoe, said saddle having slits formed itsmarginal portions betweensaid slits and its side edges shortened to produce a concavityto'receive the shoe. 7

17. For use in a machine of the class described, a saddle of flexiblesheet material adapted to cover the bottom of the. forepart of a shoe,said saddle having slits formed therein along its opposite sides toprovide flaps adapted to be engaged for holding the saddle on the'shoeand having outside of said flaps strap portions which are shortened tocontract the peripheral edge of the. saddle. 18. For use in a machine otthe class described, a saddle of flexible sheet material adapted to beapplied to the bottom of a shoe and so formed asto present toward aportion of the bottom of the shoe face which is concave in the directionof the length ofthe shoe.

19. For use in a machine of the class described, a saddle of flexiblesheet material adapted to cover the bottom of the shank andforepart of ashoe and having its tore part formed to present toward the bottom ottheshoe atace which is concavelengthwise of the shoe.

3 '20. For "usein a machine of the class de-- adapted to be applied tothe bottom of the forepart of a shoe and having its peripheral edgeshortened to produce a concavity to receive the shoe.

21. F or use in a. machine of the class described, a saddle 0tIndian-tanned leather adapted to cover the bottom of the shank andforepart ot' a shoe with its fiesh side toward the shoe and having theperipheral edge of its forepart shortened to produce a concavity toreceive the shoe.

22. That improvement in methods of malting welt shoes which consists inapplying a piece of flexible material to the torepart 0t a shoe afterthe welt sewing operation and before the outsole is applied to the shoeand operating through said flexible material to apply compactingpressure to the bottom of the shoe.

23. That improvement in methods 01 making welt shoes which consists inapplying a piece of flexible material to the torepart and shank of ashoe after the welt sewing operation and before the outsole is appliedto the shoe, and applying to said flexible material rolling pressure tocompact the materials on the bottom of the shoe.

24. In a machine of the class described, the combination With a shoesupport and means for applying compacting pressure successively todifferent portions of the bottom of a shoe on said support, of a saddleof flexible material arranged to be interposed between said pressureapplying means and the bottom of the shoe said saddle being so formed asto' present toward a portion of the bottom of the shoe a face which isconcave in the direction of the length of the shoe.

In testimony whereof, I, the said ERAsTUe E. WVINKLEY, have signed myname to this specification.

ERAST'US E. VVINKLEY. In testimony whereof I, thesaid HERMAN A.DAVENPORT, have signed my name to this specification.

HERMAN A. DAVENPORT.

